Emilia Wickstead's Fall 2026 collection is a tribute to the enigmatic French model and actress Fano Messan, whose life story and androgynous style inspired the designer. Messan's journey in the 1920s, where she had to disguise herself as a man to become a sculptor's apprentice, is a powerful narrative that Wickstead wanted to bring to the forefront.
The collection showcases a unique blend of menswear-inspired tailoring and feminine elements, creating a sense of liberation and self-expression. Wickstead's muse, Messan, embodies a hermaphrodite in Luis Buñuel's early film, further emphasizing the collection's androgynous theme. The designer's goal was to celebrate Messan's individuality and challenge societal norms.
The show featured a variety of looks, from relaxed, tailored coats and blousons in textured tweeds to carwash shirts and sleek leather suits. The silhouettes were a mix of relaxed and structured, with snug jackets paired with pencil skirts, creating a balanced androgynous aesthetic. This collection was a bold statement, attracting a curious crowd on a sunny Sunday afternoon in London.
As the show progressed, the more dramatic pieces emerged, with precisely cut gowns in eye-catching fabrics like silver lame and lavender lace. These gowns had a sculptural quality, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the collection. Wickstead's attention to detail and her ability to weave a compelling narrative through her designs make this collection a memorable and thought-provoking experience.
